Eating on the Move from the Eighteenth Century to the Present

This book focuses on food and meals consumed during travel since the transport revolution and examines the ways in which the introduction of new forms of transport (propelled by steam and petrol engines), not only affected the way people travel but also led to a transformation in the way we eat. Eating on board a train is different from eating on a ship, and the same is true for other forms of transport. Such differences are not simply a question of quality or variations of menu; a unique history has defined each of these different situations, a history which is still largely to be studied. This volume contains contributions from a mix of established food historians and young researchers. Social and economic history overlap with cultural history approaches and forays into the fields of linguistics and art, confirming that the field of food history, and more generally food studies, is by definition a field of transdisciplinary and border research. This volume will be of interest for scholars within the field of food history, food studies, and food culture, as well as social and cultural historians dealing with industrialization or social policy.

1. Introduction: the many aspects of food and travel RITA D’ERRICO, ET ALPart I: Eating on the train 2. Food on the move: the railway as a framework for innovation? JEAN-PIERRE WILLIOT 3. A taste of travel or a bite of home: eating on Soviet trains, 1960s–1980s MARIA KAPKAN Part II: Eating on the road 4. Canned dishes for travel (late 19th century– 1939): the alliance of culinary arts and industry by Raynal & Roquelaure SYLVIE VABRE 5. Eating on the road in the Italian economic boom: the picnic, between tradition and innovation DANIELA ADORNI AND STEFANO MAGAGNOLI 6. Eating at the coaching inn: the Italian Central Alps in the 19th and 20th centuries ANDREA MARIA LOCATELLI AND NICOLA MARTINELLI 7. The coin-operated food selling and the machine-vending industry in 20th-century Italy GIANPIERO FUMI PART III: Out of the ordinary food mobilities 8. Nourishment, emotions, identity: food in late19th-century Nordic polar expeditions RITVA KYLLI 9. Cooking for the Russian tsar on an imperial tour: the account of the French chef Eugène Krantz CAROLINE FAVRE 10. Feeding Italian emigrants on board steamships during the Great Migration to the Americas (1880s–1914) CLAUDIO BESANA AND RITA D’ERRICO 11. Cooking and eating in Antarctica: the beginning of ethnographic research on the character of the cook ISABELLE BIANQUIS Part IV: Travelling and imagining through food 12. Food labels on the move: the curious case of pain de Gonesse PETER SCHOLLIERS 13. Three journeys with the Chinese restaurant in Prague MARTIN FRANC 14. Luxury dining on the move aboard cruise ships crossing the Mediterranean: case study of the Oceana in the 1930s ALESSANDRO ALBANESE GINAMMI Part V: Food and cultural identity on the move 15. Migrating tastes: food, identity and politics in the works of Dorota Podlaska, Dagna Jakubowska and Rirkrit Tiravanija AGATA STRONCIWILK 16. Are exotic foodways a form of eating on the move at home? Evidence from two culinary magazines in the ‘long eighties’ FRANCESCO D’AUSILIO

Rita d’Errico is Associate Professor of Economic History at Roma Tre University, Italy. In recent years, her research has been focused on agricultural history, the typicity of foods, and the food preservation industry. In 2016, she co-edited Cheese Manufacturing in the Twentieth Century. The Italian Experience in an International Context. Stefano Magagnoli is Full Professor of Economic History at the University of Parma, Italy. His research of the last two decades focused on food history, with particular reference to the ‘invention of typicality’ and reputation. Recently he co-edited Réputation et marché. Produits, origines et marques: perspectives historiques, 2021. Peter Scholliers is Emeritus Professor of History at the Vrije Universiteit Brussel. His current interest is in the history of bread in Europe since the late 18th century. A recent publication: Pastry for the working classes (Belgium, 1880–1914), Global Food History, 8: 4 (2022). More information: https://researchportal.vub.be/en/persons/peter-scholliers. Peter J. Atkins is Emeritus Professor of Geography at the University of Durham, UK. His principal interest over several decades has been food history, with particular reference to perishable foodstuffs. Recently he co-edited Food History: A Feast of the Senses in Europe, 1750 to the Present, 2021.